Choosing the Wrong Hardwood Floor Thickness Could Cost You Big Time

So, you’re gearing up to lay down some hardwood flooring in your home? Fantastic choice! But before you dive in, let’s talk about a critical factor that could make or break your project: the thickness of your hardwood planks. This isn’t just a minor detail—it’s a game-changer that affects durability, installation, and even your wallet. When choosing hardwood flooring, it's essential to consider the Janka Hardness Scale to assess wood durability, along with other factors like moisture resistance, stability, aesthetic preferences, and budget constraints.

In this guide, we’ll explore the two main contenders in the hardwood arena: solid hardwood floors and engineered wood flooring. We’ll dissect their pros and cons, and more importantly, how their thickness plays into your installation strategy. Whether you’re flipping a property for a quick profit or crafting a forever home to pass down through generations, understanding the nuances of hardwood flooring thickness is paramount.

Let’s jump in and ensure you’re armed with the knowledge to make an informed, cost-effective decision for your flooring project.

 

The Difference Between Engineered and Solid Floors

If you walk into a room with a beautiful wood floor, chances are you can’t tell if it’s a natural-cut board or a layered construction just by looking. One is milled from a single piece of wood and offers timeless appeal. The other, known as engineered floors, is built with a top layer of real wood bonded to a stable base, offering more flexibility in both design and price. Both have their place, but when it comes to DIY installation, one is far more beginner-friendly than the other.

 

How Layered Wood Floors Are Made

Engineered flooring is made by bonding a thin slice of wood—usually around 1/8 inch thick—onto a plywood or composite base, which enhances its stability and offers a wide range of species and colors to suit nearly any design preference. This construction helps reduce expansion and shrinking, making it more stable in changing climates.

One concern with some brands is off-gassing—fumes from adhesives, stains, and finishes that may contain formaldehyde or other VOCs. If you’re installing in bedrooms or frequently used spaces, be sure to check for safety certifications before buying.

What You Get with Traditional Planks

Boards cut from solid timber vary in size depending on where they’re cut from the tree. Inner cuts tend to be longer and wider, while outer sections produce shorter, narrower pieces.

As renovation expert Mike Holmes explains, “These floors naturally expand in humid months and contract when it’s dry. Without proper spacing during installation, this movement can cause buckling or unsightly gaps—so experience matters.”

What Mike didn’t mention is that EasiKlip offers a smart solution: a clip system with silicone cushions that allows boards to move naturally, without glue or nails. It’s faster, cleaner, and designed for real-world conditions.

Built to Last

Mike also noted that layered wood can be sanded a few times, depending on the quality. But if you want a floor that lasts for generations, go for the thickest, highest-quality boards available. You’ll get more value, more flexibility, and better performance over time—especially when refinishing is part of your long-term plan.

Hardwood Flooring Thickness Chart – And Why It Matters for Your Home

Choosing the right hardwood flooring thickness isn’t just a technical detail—it’s the foundation (literally) of a beautiful, long-lasting floor. Whether you’re laying planks over concrete or upgrading your subfloor, getting the thickness right affects everything from installation considerations to durability and even refinishing capabilities.

When considering hardwood flooring options, it’s important to highlight their longevity and suitability for different aesthetic preferences. Popular choices like maple flooring offer various benefits, including durability, grading, pricing, and ease of maintenance, helping homeowners make informed decisions.

Most solid hardwood floors and engineered wood flooring are listed in inches (not millimetres), so we’ve included a quick conversion chart to make your decision easier.

A smooth, dry, and level concrete base opens the door to more flooring types and ideal hardwood flooring thicknesses options. If your surface isn’t quite there yet, installing plywood can give you that solid foundation and improve your results when you install hardwood flooring.

How Thick Is Real Hardwood Flooring?

If you’re shopping for solid hardwood floors, you’ll find three thicknesses of boards.

1. 5/8 inch (15.88 mm)
2. 3/4 inch (19 mm)
3. 7/8 inch (22.23 mm)

The thicker the board, the stronger its structural integrity and the more times it can be refinished—ideal if you’re looking for a perfect flooring solution that stands the test of time. Of course, thicker boards come with a higher initial cost, but the long-term value makes it well worth it.

How Thick Is Engineered Hardwood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is a different beast—it’s built in layers. The overall thickness includes:

• The core or base layer

• And the veneer layer (the top layer of real wood)

The most common total thicknesses are:

• 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)

• 5/8 inch (15.88 mm)

Some high-end options feature a veneer thickness comparable to solid wood—up to 3/4 inch (19 mm) or even 33/32 inch (26.16 mm) in rare cases. When comparing to solid hardwood, look at the remaining thickness of the wear layer on engineered hardwood floors and consider refinishing capabilities down the road.

Photo from: http://www.sawmillflooring.com/engineered.html

Solid Hardwood vs. Engineered: Which One’s Better?

The short answer? It depends on how long you plan to stay in the home and how much refinishing you expect to do. The long answer? Let’s break it down.

If you're planning to sand and refinish your floors every 10 years to refresh the look or erase scratches, solid hardwood floors give you more to work with. That 3/4 inch (19 mm) board usually offers about 3/8 inch of wear before hitting the tongue—enough for several refinishes over the years.

But don’t count out engineered wood flooring just yet.

High-quality engineered boards with a veneer thickness of at least 1/4 inch (5 mm) can offer similar refinishing capabilities—as long as you're choosing premium product, not bargain-bin flooring types. In exchange, engineered options bring better resistance to shifting and expanding, especially in moisture-prone areas.

Cupping, Durability & Longevity

Here’s the deal: thinner wood flooring is more vulnerable to cupping and warping, especially when moisture sneaks in. The thicker the board, the better it resists movement and the more it can be refinished over time. More wood = more life.

“I speak from experience... I installed 3/8" solid ash floors 16 years ago. I just refinished them—they look great, but I’ve got some cupping and a few boards that need replacing. If I had to do it again, I’d go with 3/4". It’s more expensive, but it lasts longer.”
– Daniel M. Martin, Architect LLC, Houzz Forum

It’s a simple equation:

• Thicker boards = better durability, better structural integrity, and better refinishing potential

• Thinner boards = more prone to damage, especially near sinks, fridges, or exterior doors
  
  

Installation Options: Floating vs. Permanent

When you install hardwood flooring, you’ve got two main routes:

• Permanent installation – Boards are nailed or glued to the subfloor (works with plywood, tile, or concrete)

• Floating installation – Boards are locked together and “float” over the subfloor, ideal for DIYers or temporary setups
  
  

What Is a Floating Floor—and Why Should You Care?

No, it’s not Aladdin’s magic carpet. But it does glide right over your subfloor like a dream.

When we talk about a floating floor, we’re talking about how the floor is installed—not what it’s made of. Unlike permanent floors that are nailed or glued down, a floating floor simply clicks or clips together and rests on top of your subfloor. No glue. No nails. No mess.

You’ll find floating options in:

• Laminate
  
  

• Cork
  
  

• Engineered wood flooring
  
  

• Solid hardwood floors
  
  

But let’s be honest—only engineered and solid hardwood flooring offer the kind of durability, beauty, and refinishing capabilities that hold up in real homes. If you’re installing over radiant heat or want flexibility in your space, a floating floor is the way to go.

 

The Big Advantage: Expansion Without Distortion

Here’s the secret sauce: floating hardwood flooring allows for natural expansion and contraction across the entire floor—without buckling, cracking, or creating tripping hazards. Permanent installations, which rely on glue or nails, can trap the wood in place. That leads to uneven pressure, cupping, and other issues over time.

Floating floors are:

• Ideal for moisture-prone areas
  
  

• Compatible with concrete, porcelain, or vinyl tile (as long as the surface is level)
  
  

• Easier to install over tricky surfaces
  
  

Both engineered wood and solid hardwood can be installed as floating floors—if you’ve got the right system.

How Do Floating Floors Stay Put?

Floating floors aren’t rugs—they’re precision-engineered, room-sized systems that lock together and stay put thanks to physics and smart design.

Each hardwood flooring plank locks into the next, forming a single, unified surface that weighs hundreds of pounds once installed. A typical box of EasiKlip flooring weighs around 43 lbs and covers just over 15 square feet. That means a 15' x 15' room will weigh in at roughly 650 lbs. That’s a lot of hardwood.

Here’s why your floating solid hardwood floor won’t budge:

• The combined weight keeps it grounded
  
  

• The underlayment (a thin foam layer) adds friction, cushions the boards, and reduces sound
  
  

• The smooth wood surface resists shifting
  
  

So if you're worried about your floor sliding around—don't be. Once it's installed, it looks and feels like any traditional hardwood floor—just without the glue or nails.

Understanding Floor Levels: Above Grade, On Grade, and Below Grade

When it comes to installation, not all floors are created equal—and neither are all spaces.

In flooring terms, there are three grades:

• Above Grade – upper floors or spaces above ground
  
  

• On Grade – ground-level floors
  
  

• Below Grade – basements or anything under ground level

Basements are where things get tricky. Why? Moisture. Lots of it. Moisture from the ground or concrete walls can wreak havoc on wood floors, causing warping, buckling, or worse.

Even the ideal thickness won’t save you if your subfloor is damp, cracked, or unstable.

Basement Flooring Thickness & Considerations

Older homes often have basement slabs that are too thin or uneven for hardwood. Ideally, your basement floor should be at least 3.5 inches thick (about 8.9 cm) and reinforced. Otherwise, you're likely to deal with cracks and dips that make installation—and durability—a challenge.

While most hardwood manufacturers say “don’t even try it” in basements, EasiKlip breaks the mould.

EasiKlip’s floating white oak flooring is one of the few solid hardwood options on the market that’s approved for basement use—as long as:

• Your basement is dry and well-ventilated
  
  

• You use proper underlayment and moisture barriers
  
  

• Humidity is under control year-round
  
  

No nails. No glue. No need to damage concrete. And no long-term regrets—as long as you’ve prepped your space properly.

Important Note: Installing hardwood below grade often voids warranties with other brands. But EasiKlip’s system is built different.

 

Finishes for Solid Hardwood Floors: What You Need to Know

When it comes to solid hardwood floors, the finish you choose matters. A lot. It impacts not just how your floor looks, but how long it lasts and how much maintenance you’re signing up for.

There are two main types of hardwood flooring: prefinished and unfinished hardwood. Prefinished hardwood comes with a factory-applied finish, making installation quicker and less messy. Unfinished hardwood, on the other hand, is installed on-site and then finished, offering flexibility in the choice of durable finishes. This allows homeowners to select a finish that best suits their aesthetic preferences and durability needs. Most hardwood flooring manufacturers produce unfinished hardwood floors, providing a wide range of options.

There are four common finish types used to protect wood flooring:

• Hard-Wax Oil – DIY-friendly, enhances the wood’s natural character

• UV Cured Oil – Only applied in factory settings, perfect for prefinished white oak flooring

• Polyurethane – Available in oil- or water-based forms, gives a strong surface coat

• Aluminum Oxide – Extremely tough, but not DIY—used mostly in engineered wood flooring

Of these, only hard-wax oil and polyurethane can realistically be applied at home. The rest? Leave them to the pros with industrial equipment.

Bonus: UV-cured oil gives wood a warm, natural sheen—no more “bowling alley” shine from older poly finishes.

Why Pre-Finished Hardwood Is the Smartest Choice

Sure, you can finish your floor onsite. But should you?

Here’s the reality: finishing your own wood flooring is time-consuming, messy, and easy to mess up. You'll need to:

• Rent a heavy-duty sander and go through 4–8 passes with different grits
  
  

• Vacuum every inch of the room—ceiling to floor—or risk dust ruining the finish
  
  

• Apply multiple coats of stain and polyurethane, sanding between each one
  
  

• Stay off the floor for 2–7 days while it dries
  
  

And if you’ve got pets, kids, or you just like living in your home? It’s a logistical nightmare.

 

Why EasiKlip’s Prefinished White Oak Flooring Wins

EasiKlip’s prefinished white oak flooring skips the mess and saves you days of labour. The boards come factory-finished using UV-cured oil—a process that penetrates and protects the wood with up to four coats and zero drying time at home.

✅ No sanding
✅ No odours or off-gassing
✅ No waiting around

Plus, factory finishes are stronger than anything you can apply on-site. They use industrial-grade sealers that offer better protection, higher UV resistance, and warranties up to 25 years—compared to just 3 years for most site finishes.

As Consumer Reports put it: “Prefinished solid-wood flooring had consistently lower formaldehyde emissions than engineered wood or laminate flooring we tested.”

In other words? It’s safer, smarter, and just plain better.

A Natural Look That Performs

If you want natural character, soft warm tones, and a surface that can handle real life, prefinished white oak delivers. It’s even more stable over radiant heat systems than exotic woods like Brazilian cherry or Brazilian teak, which often discolor along the heating pattern.

Add in strong refinishing capabilities, lower long-term cost, and resistance to stains and spills—and you’ve got a truly perfect flooring solution.

5 Big Reasons to Choose Prefinished Over On-Site Finished Hardwood Floors

There’s a reason more homeowners—and smart contractors—are choosing prefinished white oak flooring over unfinished boards. Actually, there are five solid reasons:

1. Better Expansion Control
   Prefinished boards expand and contract individually, which keeps the floor smooth year-round. Site-finished floors often develop side-bonding—where boards stick together during finishing and then pull apart later, causing gaps.
   
   

2. No Household Disruption
   Skip the fumes, noise, and mess. With prefinished floors, you don’t need to pack up your family and move out while the floors dry.
   
   

3. Zero Dust or Odours
   No sanding = no dust clouds. And there are no hazardous fumes from on-site stains or sealers.
   
   

4. Faster Installation Time
   Save days of sanding, staining, and drying. With prefinished boards, installation moves faster—especially with EasiKlip’s clip system.

5. Instant Walkability
   Once the last board clicks into place, your solid hardwood floor is ready to walk on. No waiting. No curing time.
   

How Long Does Hardwood Flooring Last?

Solid hardwood flooring is built to last—anywhere from 30 to 100 years with proper care. Its refinishing capabilities mean you can sand it down multiple times over its lifespan to remove scratches, restore shine, or even switch up your style.

Engineered hardwood flooring, on the other hand, depends heavily on the veneer thickness of its top layer. Thicker veneers can be refinished once or twice. Thin veneers? Not so much.

Here’s how to make any hardwood floor last longer:

• Use furniture pads to avoid dents and scratches
  
  

• Keep grit and debris off the floor
  
  

• Wipe up spills quickly
  
  

• Refinish when necessary, based on traffic and wear
  
  

By choosing the right flooring thickness, species, and finish, you’ll enjoy a floor that brings natural character, grain patterns, and warm tones to your space—for decades.

Final Thoughts: Choose Smarter, Choose Easiklip

Whether you're installing over a concrete subfloor, comparing different wood species, or considering your installation method, getting the actual thickness of your flooring right is critical. It impacts everything from stability and appearance to how often it can be refinished—and how long it will last.

Thicker wood flooring offers better resistance to wear, greater refinishing capabilities, and stronger overall structural integrity. If you're choosing engineered wood, be sure to check the top veneer thickness, as that determines how much life you’ll actually get from your floor.

Of course, even the best flooring needs proper maintenance. With the right care—like regular cleaning, quick spill cleanup, and protective pads under furniture—your floors can stay beautiful and perform well for decades. When properly maintained, solid hardwood easily outlasts most alternatives.

If you’re ready to install flooring that’s built to last and easy to work with, EasiKlip’s prefinished solid white oak flooring is the way to go. No glue. No nails. No stress. Just a smarter, stronger floor that’s ready for whatever life throws at it.

Explore EasiKlip flooring today and lay down your next floor with total confidence.